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hey guys was wondering if anyone is running drag radials with a manual trans at the track. Had my chevelle to the track for the first time with drag radials and it just blew the tires off in 1st and 2nd gear my 60 was a 2.4 yeah it sucked. tire pressure was at 24 psi wasnt sure where to start. Only got to make one run as my alt belt for some reason decided to blow off down the track somewhere and was never seen again. My car is a 70 chevelle, stock suspension, 4.11's with a locker, Competition Eng. Drag shocks rears are set at 50/50 and fronts at 90/10. I was told by my brother in law that drag radials WILL NOT WORK on a stick car because of the shock to the tires at the launch. I can understand this a little but dont totally buy it. (SORRY JAMES) Not that I think he's wrong but just feel that they should work a little better and if they don't work that well then why don't the tire manufactures say in there adds that they arent good for stick cars. So I guess what I really need to know is if anyone is having success with a drag radial on a stick car, what tire psi are you running, and how much of a burnout do you need to do with the radial, was under the impression that you dont need to do a John force burnout. Any input from anyone is appreciated. By the way I'm running the Nitto NT555 drag radials, I also have a pair of the Mickey Thompson drag radials.

Home > Strip > ET Drag Radial
ET Drag Radial
Pro Drag Radial


M/T® Pro Drag Radials are the fastest Drag tires on the strip! The radial design allows for less rolling resistance for better ET's. Radial slicks will give you the edge over the competition!

Radial Construction for Less Rolling Resistance
Zero Growth for Predictable Gear Ratios
Compounded For Maximum Traction
Works best with Auto Trans Applications
NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE!.

you dont have to beleive me. why dont u ask some one that knows instead of your butt buddy re todd who knows everything except how to drive a car. why dont u call the tire company. or talk to a chassis shop that has been doin it since the 70s. didnt say you can go fast with them but with a stick you cant hammer the tire on the launch you have to ease into it. why do you think all of the turbos run fast with them because the power comes in late. i thougt todd would know that

Remember I didn't say that I don't believe you I just feel that they should work a lot better than they did. I know that I was only able to make one pass and that I shouldn't base anything on that alone. I'm sure that there has to be more out there than just me that is using a drag radial with a stick and is hooking, maybe not as well as a slick but shouldnt be blowing the tires off for 100 feet. I know my tire pressure was high I wanted to start high and go lower with each pass, but obviously only making one pass isnt gonna help the fact. I've already fixed some of the gremlins that I had and I'm already planning the next trip to the track, next time I'll check the track schedule myself to make sure that the Lucas Oil drag series isnt there that night like this past friday and spend and hour and a half making a detour(If ya know what I mean) I let ya know I want you to be there. You don't have to talk to re todd if you dont want to.

I use them with a trans brake, if you ask me the trans brake probably hits harder than a stick shift. Aolt of guys are going very fast with trans brakes and the et street radials. I wouldn't hesitate to try them.

You may need to do something to the back of your car to get it to work with any tire, Bias ply slick or radial. Best results in the rear would come from urethane bushings and stock boxed lower arms, adjustable upper arms, and an anti-roll bar (i prefer a weld in). With the adjustable uppers you can get pinion angle where is should be.

I've never run nitto's but the fasted drag radial cars on the planet aren't running them and i don't think it's a case of monkey see, monkey do. I think the M/T's are that much better.

I have a pair of the Mickey's in a 275/60/15, I never raced with them I bought them used to use them for racing. the tread on them won't legally pass inspection since my car is driven on the street, and I got a Hell of a good deal on the Nitto's or else I would have bought a new set of the Mickey's I feel that with there popularity they are superior to the other drag radials. As soon as I get an Xtra set of wheels to mount the mickeys to I'll use them, I figured that most of the tire pressures would be similar to all the drag radials. This winter the rear of the car is getting done, the lowers are getting boxed, and I'm building a set of adjustable uppers. But in the mean time I've gotta work with what I got. thank you for the info any and all is appreciated.

The nittos are junk compared to the MT radials! How fast of a car are we talking about here? Alot of it is just driver, as much as you may not want to hear that. My 03 cobra(roots style supercharger, a lot of torque at a low rpm) with completly stock(factory ford) suspension on a 275x40x17 (17 inch rims with little sidewall) MT radial would go 1.66 60' all day and that was boging the motor down a little. A 275x60x15 should hook no problem! You CANT just dump the clutch though and expect it to work...

Launching with drag radials and a 5-speed takes a little finesse but they will hook. I run 275/50/15 Mickey Thompson E.T. Street Radials and after a short burnout, I went a 1.7 60ft. first launch the other night with my 3500# turd of a Mustang that has handling suspension. Just make sure not to dump the clutch. Try launching at around 4500rpms (may be different with your car...play around and see what works best) and come straight up off of the clutch as if you were taking off from a stoplight (although slightly faster) while flooring it. If I do this, my car dead hooks and pulls. However, If I side-step the clutch at almost any rpm, I just go into burnout mode. Good luck

if you have factory rear suspension with no mods to the geometry , to lengthen the hit and to loose of a shock. like it sounds your going to have to ease it out first is se how much traction you got by leaving lower and still snapping it off . then raise it and slip it till you get your best . then as you find what it likes you can adjust the chassis front and rear to leave higher/harder . ya gotta take babysteps and alot of practice .
if your clutch is adjustable add lower slip and higher lock up

http://www.nashootout.com/drrules.htm

That red camaro on the top of the link shows what can be done on a set of 275 DR's.

I am not sure if the tires know the difference between being hit at 4500 rpm's off a trans brake or a clutch????

Keith

all of the above are good advice . you need to play with the shocks as well , 50/50 will work with a footbrake car but it will shock the tire too hard with a transbrake or a clutch , you need to soften the hit a little to give the car a chance to pitch rotate and put the weight into the rear suspension to plant that tire better
good luck