GoneDragRacing.com

Who do you guys think makes the best bolt on suspension kit for a mustang?

I know QA1 mustangs a nice piece...any other companies out there you guys suggest?

Im looking at completely changing my front and rear suspension. I want all adjustable stuff.

do you guys know anybody that sells a completely kit...everything you need to bolt in and launch my way to some killer 60's?

I have lakewood 90/10's and 50/50's, aftermarket upper and lower control arms, subframes, pretty much the basics. I want to take everything off...time for a change. Its all decent shit, just time for a change

I built my car to street race...what in your opinion is the best way to shit and git on the street??? most races on the street are won and lost out of the whole i think

wolferacecraft.com thats what im using in my new car and he holds the record for drag radial with that setup 7.4's at a 194mph

Look into the Team Z stuff or Wolfe Racecraft stuff.

http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/

We use Pa Racing for Mild steel and Racecraft for Moly.
http://www.paracing.com
http://www.racecraft.com

all of the above are good , qa1 sucks , put all that garbage on my brothers car , waste of money
the stock stuff works great ,just add 70/30 lakewood struts
a-arms and coilovers won't make it any faster same with the kmember , but it is easier to work around
adjustable upper rears are nice , if the bushings are good leave the stock lowers on
ran 9.70 with the completely original 1991 stuff (except struts)and it drove great , now it probably is no faster and drives like a truck
i do like the pa k-member though

http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/

Call Dave and see what he can do for you.

i think usually the shittier stuff works good it seems these days with these types of cars lol...ive had friends with 4 cylinder cars converted cars...BONESTOCK motor..throttle body and everything and were pulling 1.6 60' and mid 12s with a 125 shot...and thats with those good year eagle tires and ten holes from pep boys..i think that's pretty impressive for a bone stock 5.0 with a little shot lol

Thats actually easier than you think. My buddy's car went 1.6 60's and low 11's on bonestock suspension too. But trust me when i say the faster you go problems really magnify! I had poly bushings in a low 9 second car and it was downright scary at 150+mph!

yea,i hear you lol..ive never been that fast but i know for a lot of street 10 and 9 second cars that stuff usually works pretty descent..but generally the mph isn't that high..usually 120s or 130s for these types of cars..im still young and newer to this stuff and learning so i try to get in on a lot of this stuff and voice what ive seen soo far and get ideas i guess.Ive seen the video of you taking it out to the bar..good to see a car like that cruising around on the streets at night with a radio and everything

AS FOR THE STREET,I RAN STOCK K-MEMBER & A-ARMS WITH 4CYL SPRINGS & IN THE BACK I HAD MAC UPPER&LOWER CONTROL ARMS WIT 4CYL SPRINGS WITH KONI ADJUSTABLES ALL AROUND N I DEAD HOOKED ON THE STREET...
IF U WANT SOMETHING 2 WORK BOTH STREET & TRACK I WOULD GO WITH THE UPR FRONT&REAR KIT WITH MOTORSPORT B SPRINGS OUT BACK

http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=299

http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=141

UPR SUCKS

UPR RULES!!!!!

^^^I've heard acouple horror stories of the upr k member cracking and all that shit.

RACECRAFT INC. very nice piece,they have everything you will need,call Mark or visit www.racecraft.com

I'm going with wolferacecraft myself. Guess their new record is 7.19 or something!

Sorry 7.18 @ 201 on drag radials. The numbers speak for themselves.

just spent most of the day putting a UPR front end in my car , just for the weight savings
pain in the ass getting the upper strut nuts off - i felt your pain nastyfox

as for the upr parts ? . it did not sit flush to the chassis with out tweaking it . would not let the power steering rack sit flush with out notching a frame support and the bolts were too long because they made the mounts too short .
it would not accept the urathane motor mounts that have a locating pin that fits the stock k-frame . luckily i still had the old stockers and an engine limiter strap .
fuel lines needed to be moved a tiny bit or get pinched
no instuctions or torque specs included
makes starter access a breeze
we'll see if the 100 lb diff makes it any quicker

If you want it to hook hard and have aftermarket torque boxes do southside lowers or umi (the new southsides) with an adjustable upper and an anti roll bar stock v8 springs and some strange adjustable shocks. Up front ide do a pa k member setup and a set of coilovers with strange struts but thats up to you.

I would vote for Team Z also I had no problems installing my front suspension at all, but it is made for a manual rack if you want to keep power steering let Dave know when you order it.